Taste – 8.7
Atmosphere – 8.7
Service – 9.4
Value – 9.4 (£77 for 4pps)

Kolyvata central square, Kolivata 310 80, Greece

Nestled in the heart of Lefkada, tucked high within the mountains and reached by winding, timeworn roads, lies a tiny village with no more than ten houses. At its centre stands Maria’s Tavern – bathed in the golden glow of the evening sun. The warmth spills into a tightly knit courtyard, where just a handful of tables invite guests to linger, creating the perfect setting for a relaxed, intimate meal.
(I know — this might feel like a slow, meandering start to a food blog. Not exactly my usual style. But Maria’s Tavern isn’t the kind of place you write about with punchy lines and fast-paced energy. It demands a slower rhythm, one that mirrors its tranquil charm. To capture its essence, I have to write gently, almost lazily — because anything too lively would miss the mark entirely.)

We were warmly welcomed by a cheerful man who shared a few laughs with my dad, while the rest of us soaked in the gentle embrace of the sun. We were promptly seated, only to be immediately surrounded by the local gang of cats — charming little opportunists who softened us up with wide eyes and gentle meows, hoping to score a few leftovers.
There was no printed menu — everything was shared by word of mouth. Drinks were simple: beer, wine, and soft drinks. Easy, quick, and efficient. As for the food, it was whatever Maria had gathered from the farmers’ market that day. We opted for nearly the entire menu, as we didn’t want to miss out on anything.

The food came out in no particular order. First up was the Greek salad, followed quickly by the tzatziki and bread, which felt suspiciously like a starter, even though no one had mentioned it was one. The salad? Classic. Nothing groundbreaking — but let’s be honest, it’s hard to reinvent tomatoes, cucumbers, and feta unless you buy the finest ingredients in the world. The tzatziki, though? Creamy, garlicky, and dangerously moreish. The kind of dip you could eat by the spoonful and still convince yourself it’s just a ‘side.’
This was when things really got exciting — plates began arriving one after another, our eyes lit up, the cats perked up with renewed hope, and even fellow diners turned their heads to sneak a glance at the feast unfolding at our table. The moussaka was one of those eye candy plates — and in my parents’ words, “the best moussaka I’ve ever had.” And coming from them, that’s saying something. I’ve spent most of my life avoiding aubergine — it’s never been my thing. But in this moussaka, it was a revelation. Light, tender, and full of subtle flavour, it blended beautifully with the rest of the dish, adding just the right depth without overpowering anything. Next up was the pastitsio — often called the “Greek lasagna,” though to me, it’s always felt like the kind of dish you throw together after a night out. Surprisingly, this one was superbly balanced in flavour. That said, it was quite similar to the moussaka, and the texture didn’t quite hit the mark for me — a bit on the sloppy side. Still, I’m pretty sure this is one of the better versions I’ll come across in my lifetime. The soutzoukakia — Greek meatballs — were out of this world. Seriously. Like little flavour-packed asteroids, deceptively simple but unforgettable. The Italians could take a few notes from Maria, because these were hands-down the best meatballs I’ve ever had. And the wild part? No sauce. Just golden and utterly scrumptious. This paired beautifully with a sip of Mythos beer and a bite of saganaki cheese — light, salty, and just enough to refresh the palate. Then came the gemista: rice and spices tucked into a grilled pepper. It stood out from the usual Greek fare, carrying a surprising Spanish twist — almost like a paella. Which was refreshingly different.

The evening unfolded slowly and peacefully — the kind that invites you to truly connect with the people closest to you, while sharing home-cooked food among joyful strangers (and a few cats, of course). These are the best kinds of nights: full of memories you know you’ll revisit again and again.
Ah! Nearly forgot the pudding. Just as I was leaving, hoping to snap a few better photos of the tavern’s exterior, the waiter appeared over the balcony and called me back in. “You must try it and tell me what you think,” he said, referring to a dessert made especially for customers by his aunt. And by God, it was incredible — something like a chocolate cheesecake, but nuttier and far less cheesy. To top it off, it was on the house. That’s the beauty of Greek hospitality: warm, generous, and always ready to surprise you when you least expect it.
A total of £77 — Less than £20 per person, drinks included, is an absolute steal. Especially when the food could easily rival Michelin-level cooking. Sure, the presentation might not win awards, but the flavours? Unforgettable.